Updated 2025-01-01 Wednesday
Turkey
Mahmutlar, Antalya province (2024-07-09)
This market is held every Tuesday. Much of it is directed at tourists of course, but the fruits and vegetables sections are the attraction for Leyla and me; and speaking just for me, I loved the corn! It's not the "sweet corn" or "white corn" that seems to be all you can find in the United States, but real yellow corn.
Mahmutlar, Antalya province (2024-07-09)
Mediterrean coast at Mahmutlar, one of many spots along the coastline. Note the slabs of rock. These extend under the water and we have to swim over them to reach deep water, since they're smooth and slippery. Also, the waves don't look like much, but they really push and pull when we're trying to get back to shore.
Antalya (2024-08-06)
Tour around the Antalya harbor and beaches. On board a "pirate" ship, we went around the Antalya castle mountain and stopped at Cleopatra Beach for a swim. Lunch and refreshments were included as well as dancing under a bubble-making machine.
Trabzon (2024-09-18)
Not to be confused with the Hagia Sofia Grand Mosque in Istanbul.
Trabzon (2024-09-18)
This video doesn't fails to capture the ambiance; the prevasive smell of fish from numerous stalls, and the crowds around those stalls. Then there are vegetable stalls nearby with their crowds. In all, a cacaphony of buying and selling.
Maçka, Trabzon province (2024-09-22)
Walk around (more like climb) the ruins of Sümela Monastery. Still pictures really don't capture the rooms well, so I recorded videos to show what's left of various rooms, such as kitchen, dining, bathing, priest's cell'.
Unknown to me until later, CNN wrote an article on these ruins: "The ancient monastery hanging from the side of a cliff"
Azerbaijan
Baku (2024-09-23)
A quick scan of Baku's skyline. You can see how old buildings (Soviet era) are still prevalent, but in the downtown region are very modern buildings. Because Baku is Leyla's hometown, I expect we'll be making trips to there; it's only 3 km (1.8 mi) from where we're staying.
Baku (2024-09-24)
My first time in Baku was in 2006. The way people drove here was scary; almost no street markings, signs, or signals. Crossing a street meant waiting for a break in traffic or crossing one "lane" (no lane markings, just lines of cars) at a time while traffic was stopped — yeah, standing between cars.
Nothing has changed in 18 years. Maybe a few more street markings, but not much else. The video shows late afternoon traffic below the apartment we're staying at. I saw far worse from the taxi that brought us from the airport. Even an ambulance, with sirens and flashing lights, got stuck.
Baku (2024-09-25)
Walk from apartment to downtown. It's only 1.8 miles, and we're fit enough now. We spent the afternoon and evening there, marveling at how much has changed. Where there was once broken fountains and streets and traffic, there are now beautiful pedestrian plazas and parks. Some things seem familiar, but it's a deja vu feeling; not quite real. The hotel I stayed in on my first visit is still there, so I had a reference point.
Many of the new buildings are architecturally amazing. I wish I were a better photographer. Neftchilar Avenue, which runs parallel to the boardwalk, is a modern expressway; well-marked and controlled by signal lights. To cross it, fortunately, there is an underpass for pedestrians.
We ate an early dinner at 'Pizza Inn', a familiar restaurant to us. Over the years, their menu apparently moved away from pizza; the menu now shows them at the back.
Baku (2024-09-29)
Leyla tells me this is a traditional Azeri wedding celebration. I started recording too late to see people arriving. I had attended a wedding reception in Sumgayit a long time ago (2008?), joining the men in a line dance and consuming vodka until Leyla stopped the refills.
Baku (2024-10-06)
Returning from Sumgayit (north of Baku) after visiting cemetary where Leyla's father is buried. The reservoir in the background provides water for Baku.
Baku (2024-10-08)
Nighttime walk through Central Park from apartment to downtown. I recorded the walk over the freeway because the walkway is unique; not just a straight line, but curving as it descends.
Baku (2024-10-10)
Just a few blocks north of the apartment is another park. Small but nice. Across the street is the center where the COP29 conference will be held starting 11 November.
Germany
Husum, Near Flensburg (2024-10-31)
Staying in Flensburg, Germany. Visited a nearby town, Husum. Not much to see really, but Leyla's sister and niece were to meet a priest to discuss the niece's confirmation into the church.
Also, their cat was in heat and needed a date. Not what Leyla and I would do, but it's done differently here apparently.
Flensburg (2024-11-04)
Downtown Flensburg and harbor. We've been here several times over the years. Little has changed...
Denmark
Tønder, Denmark (2024-11-16)
Christmas market in Tønder, Denmark. The Flensburg Christmas market doesn't start until 24 November, the day we return to Baku, so we visited this town.
While we were there, Santa Claus (Julemanden in Danish) dropped by.
Germany
Handewitt, near Flensburg (2024-11-20)
First snowfall since we've been here. It didn't last long and the sun came out shortly after, but it was exciting nevertheless — being from coast of California, any weather event is exciting.
More snow, but coming down heavy and lasting.
Azerbaijan
Returned from Germany
Baku (2024-11-29)
A friend of Aysel’s (Leyla's daughter)' recommended this Greek restaurant, named "Eva". It’s in the Port of Baku district, and opened only a few months ago. Beautiful interior with live performances.
Baku (2024-11-30)
At our favorite restaurant, Borani. It's good food at a good price. After dinner, we shared a hookah. I haven't smoked anything (except second-hand) for six months.
Baku (2024-12-01)
Dinner with Leyla, Aysel, and Amir at "Qaynana" restaurant in Old Baku. Qaynana means "mother-in-law" in Azeri. Old Baku is the part of the city within the orignal fortress walls dating back to 12th century. I ordered lamb liver with potatoes and onions, all fried in oil. Bread was baked fresh in the back of the restaurant. My mouth is watering now just remembering it.
After dinner, we walked around. I saw someone playing a Tar. I mention this because it might be of interest to one of my sisters. More info on this instrument at Wikipedia Tar article .
Baku (2024-12-03)
Dinner with Leyla, Aysel, and Amir at another Georgian restaurant. We agreed the food here was better than at Quyana. That's not to say the food wasn't good at the former.
Sumgayit, North of Baku (2024-12-04)
Dinner in Sumgayit, a town north of Baku and on the coast of Caspian Sea. This restaurant (and hotel) was recommended by a friend of Aysel. The restaurant provides private dining rooms. Servers brought the food and checked in on us from time to time. As this was Hump Day (Wednesday), some of the meat was camel. Yes, camel.
Baku(2024-12-14)
First snowfall of the season in Baku.
It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas.
Natalya, Leyla's sister, is also visiting from Trabzon. She has an appointment at the US Embassy next week to -- hopefully -- receive a visa to visit with her duaghter in Los Angeles. Getting a visa from US for an Azerbaijan citizen is a long process; not just filling out an online form. Proof of ties to home country and sufficient income must be provided.
Baku(2025-01-01) New Years Day
Start of a new year in Baku.